As a new parent, we are sure you recognize the daunting moment when, you're standing in the baby aisle, turning a bottle over in your hands. The front says "gentle," "natural," "pure." The back lists twenty-three ingredients you can't pronounce. You put it down, pick up another one. Same situation. You leave with the one that had the nicest packaging, or the one a friend recommended, or the one that shouted "toxin-free" in the largest font.
This is the problem with baby skincare labels today. There is a widening gap between what the front of the pack promises and what the back actually contains, and most parents don't have the tools to close it. The guidance available online doesn't help much either. It either produces long lists of things to fear, or reassures parents with terms that sound scientific but carry no legal or regulatory weight whatsoever.
This guide is something different. It is a framework for reading any baby skincare product, including ours, with clarity.
Read Beyond marketing
Some of the most common words on baby skincare packaging today have no universal scientific or regulatory definition. Terms such as "natural," "clean," "toxin-free," and "pure" are generally marketing descriptors rather than standardized cosmetic classifications. In most countries, these claims are not independently verified before products reach the market, although some brands voluntarily obtain third-party certifications that define their own ingredient standards. As a result, the same term can mean very different things from one brand to another.
The claims that carry more meaningful weight are the ones tied to a process of evaluation:
- Dermatologist Tested: a qualified dermatologist has assessed the formulation, typically through patch testing or clinical skin evaluation.
- Pediatrician Approved: a medical professional has reviewed and endorsed the product's suitability for infant use; this is a stronger signal than "tested" because it implies an outcome, not just a process
- Clinically Tested/ Safety Tested: the finished formulation, not just its ingredients, has been assessed under controlled conditions
- Clinically Proven: Although loosely defined by the industry, this claim usually means, the finished formulation has been tested and positive scientific results have been obtained.
- Non-irritant to skin/ Safe for all skin types: irritation testing has been carried out on the complete product
The critical distinction is this: while individual ingredients may each have established safety profiles, the finished formulation can still become irritating if the ingredients interact unexpectedly, or the product lacks adequate stability. This is why safety assessment of the finished product is just as important as evaluating the ingredients themselves.
It is also important to understand what a brand's "patch tested" claim actually means. The rigorous occlusive patch tests commonly used to evaluate skin irritation and sensitization are typically conducted on healthy adult volunteers, not infants. These studies involve exposing the skin to the product under controlled conditions for an extended period, making them ethically inappropriate for babies, whose skin is still developing and more physiologically vulnerable.
As a result, while a "dermatologically tested" or "patch tested" claim provides reassurance that the formulation was found to be non-irritating on adult skin under the conditions of the study, it does not guarantee that every baby will respond similarly. For this reason, parents are still advised to perform a simple home patch test by applying a small amount of the product to a limited area of the baby's skin and observing any signs of redness or irritation before widespread use.
When a product has been both dermatologically tested and endorsed/ evaluated by a pediatrician, it provides an additional layer of confidence that the formulation has been assessed for suitability on infant or children's skin under appropriate clinical conditions.
Think in Formulations, Not Ingredients
A baby's skin in the first years of life is biologically different from adult skin. The stratum corneum, the outermost protective layer, is still maturing. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is measurably higher than in adult skin. The skin's pH is more alkaline, and the lipid matrix between skin cells is less complete. This means the skin is more permeable, more reactive, and less able to repair itself after exposure to irritants.
What this makes clear is that understanding the complete formulation, and how all ingredients work together to complement the developing barrier is an essential step before selecting the right product.
Humectants attract water and bind it to the skin surface. Glycerin is the most widely studied example in paediatric skincare, it draws moisture from the environment and from deeper skin layers, maintaining hydration at the surface without occlusion. It is well-tolerated across all skin types, including neonatal.
Humectants when complemented with occlusives, that form a protective physical film on the skin surface that slows water loss. Paraffinum Liquidum (mineral oil) is one of the most established occlusives in paediatric skincare, it creates a breathable barrier that shields delicate skin from friction, moisture loss, and external irritants without penetrating into the skin or disrupting its barrier chemistry. Contrary to common misconception, mineral oil at cosmetic grade does not clog pores or impede normal skin function; it is specifically its inert, non-reactive character that makes it appropriate for sensitive infant skin.
Emollients fill the microscopic gaps between skin cells, smoothing texture and reinforcing the skin's structural matrix. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, derived from coconut and palm kernel oil, is a lightweight emollient with excellent skin compatibility and strong tolerability data. Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii), is a rich emollient that also contributes fatty acids that naturally support the lipid barrier. Isopropyl Myristate contributes skin feel and spreadability, ensuring the formulation applies evenly and comfortably.
Skin protectants provide targeted defense against specific insults like friction, prolonged wetness, or enzymatic irritants in the nappy area. Zinc oxide, for example, is the clinical gold standard in diaper area care that when formulated in the right combination, forms a physical shield against direct contact with urine and fecal enzymes, reduces inflammation, and exerts gentle antimicrobial activity.
A formulation that balances humectants, emollients, and occlusives is doing more meaningful work than one that simply lists attractive-sounding active ingredients.
Let’s now decode a rinse off- shampoo formulation, as these are built around a different functional requirement- effective, gentle cleansing for a rinse-off product. Let’s now decode a rinse-off shampoo formulation, which is designed for a different functional requirement: effective yet gentle cleansing. The cleansing agents, known as surfactants, lift away oil, sweat, dirt, and other impurities so they can be rinsed off with water. Since baby skin has a developing barrier, the goal is not maximum cleansing power but a well-balanced surfactant system that cleans effectively while minimizing disruption to the skin barrier. This is why baby shampoos often rely on milder surfactant families, such as glucosides and betaines, which are valued for their skin compatibility and are frequently combined to optimize cleansing, mildness, and foam. The same formulation approach also helps create the gentle cleansing systems commonly used in tear-free baby shampoos.
While reading an Ingredient list we must bear in mind, that lists are written in descending order of concentration. The first five or six ingredients make up the majority of the formulation. Everything listed after that is present in smaller quantities, functional, but not the structural core of the product.
Rather than scanning a list for ingredients to fear, the more useful practice is asking: does each ingredient here have a clear purpose? Is there a humectant? An emollient? An occlusive? A preservative that keeps the product safe from microbial contamination? An emulsifier to keep water and oil phases stable?
Preservative-free
This brings us to one of the most misunderstood claims on cosmetic packaging: "preservative-free." While it may sound reassuring, preservative-free does not automatically mean safer, particularly for products that contain water.
Preservatives are ingredients added in very small, carefully regulated concentrations to protect a product from the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mould during storage and everyday use. Each time a bottle is opened or fingers come into contact with the product, microorganisms from the surrounding environment can be introduced into the formulation. Without an effective preservation system, these microbes can multiply rapidly, potentially contaminating the product long before its expiry date.
For babies, this is especially important. Their skin barrier is still developing, making them more vulnerable to irritation and infection. Applying a contaminated product to delicate or compromised skin can pose a far greater risk than using a properly preserved formulation.
This does not mean every product must contain a traditional preservative. Some water-free formulations, such as certain oils or balms, may not require one because microorganisms cannot readily grow in the absence of water. However, most lotions, creams, washes, and other water-based baby care products require an effective preservation strategy to remain safe throughout their intended shelf life and use.
Free from Claims- What it indicates
Paraben-Free: Parabens are among the most effective and well-studied cosmetic preservatives, used for decades to protect products from microbial contamination. The claim gained popularity after studies raised questions about their potential endocrine activity, prompting widespread scientific investigation and significant media attention. Although regulatory authorities continue to consider approved parabens safe for use within prescribed limits, many brands have adopted a precautionary approach, particularly for baby care, given their barrier is more permeable and more irritable compared to adults and therefore, warrant extra care. When you see a "paraben-free" claim, it indicates the product uses an alternate preservative system to protect their formulation.
Sulphate-free: This claim indicates that the formulation does not contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), two highly effective cleansing surfactants. While they are considered safe in rinse-off products when appropriately formulated, they can be more disruptive to the skin's lipid barrier than many milder surfactant systems. For baby cleansers, formulators often choose gentler surfactant combinations that cleanse effectively while better supporting the skin's developing barrier.
Phthalate-free: Phthalates are primarily associated with certain fragrance ingredients, where they have historically been used as solvents or carriers. Because some phthalates have been linked to endocrine-disrupting effects, their use has been increasingly restricted or prohibited in cosmetics across many regions. A "phthalate-free" claim indicates that these ingredients have been excluded from the formulation, particularly the fragrance system.
Artificial Colourant-free: Artificial colourants are added to improve a product's visual appeal but do not contribute to cleansing, moisturization, or skin protection. Their absence simply means the formulation avoids ingredients whose primary purpose is aesthetics rather than skin function, reducing one unnecessary component in products designed for delicate baby skin.
BoroPlus FromMaa products are Dermatologist Tested and Pediatrician Approved. Every formulation decision*, from the balanced humectant-emollient-occlusive system* in our cream and lotion, to the plant-derived glucoside surfactant blend in our shampoo, to the phenoxyethanol-free preservation approach, is made with a single question in mind: is this right for a baby's developing skin, every single day?
References:
[1] Harwood et al. (2024), StatPearls- Covers glycerin, mineral oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, and shea butter under the moisturizer framework of humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
[2] Lucia Palandri, Marco Monti, Maria Rosaria Scasserra, Camilla Lugli, Marco Fasano, Laura Lucaccioni, Elena Righi, Regulatory framework of phthalates and two common alternatives: A review of the European Union legislation, International Journal of Hygiene and Environmental Health, Volume 271, 2026, 114704, ISSN 1438-4639, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijheh.2025.114704.
[3] Alisha Janiga-MacNelly, Mackenna McGraw, Maria Teresa Fernandez-Luna, Ramon Lavado, Assessment of the toxic effects of parabens, commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, and their halogenated by-products on human skin and endothelial cells, NAM Journal, Volume 1, 2025, 100011, ISSN 3050-6204, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.namjnl.2025.100011.
